Hospital cafeteria.

The phrase is likely to send the same shivers of dread through a person's mind as "The principal wants to see you" or "You've been traded to Detroit."

Yet when Noble Health took over operations of Audrain Community Hospital, executive chairman Don Peterson praised the facility's kitchen.

"The cafeteria at the hospital -- it's wonderful," he said. "It's actually pretty posh."

At the time, the cafeteria was closed to the public. It was late winter and the hospital had barred visitors as a safety precaution as the pandemic continued to romp through the area.

Peterson was confident enough at the time to suggest they might open for Sunday suppers or pancake breakfast once people were allowed to return.

The public is once again welcome at the hospital and its cafeteria. And if a sampling from both the buffet line and the grill are representative of the kitchen's work, Peterson's appraisal is justified.

Well, perhaps "posh" is a bit of a stretch -- although there's garden seating outside and on a recent Tuesday slices of balsamic seared steak were ready in a buffet pan and warm lasagna about to be pulled from the oven.

These are part of a daily specials rotation. Of the line items featured regularly, deep fried chicken strips are a favorite.

Yes, the cafeteria's appearance may be somewhat clinical. It's a hospital -- you want it that way. Itmea doesn't mean, however, guests expect the menu to be as lean.

Deep frying may not be the healthiest presentation, but the crust is crisp and nutty, with just enough pepper to provide a spark. And the generous portion of white meat inside slips apart the touch of a knife, tender and mellow.

The grill offers burgers, of course. There is, however, a comforting favorite they are willing to flip on the griddle.

A grilled cheese sandwich as prepared by the cafeteria's line cooks, is wonderfully reminiscent of childhood.

They could follow the lead of chef's elsewhere and dress the sandwich with cave aged cheeses sourced from small farmers in France, smoked heritage pork belly or microgreens plucked by hand on a family farm. Instead they present memories of avocado green refrigeratos, wood paneling, sunken living rooms and three channels to surf.

This is white bread, American cheese and a buttered flattop. And it is bound to bring a smile.

The sandwich is rich and creamy with a crispy patina that crinkles a smoky warmth over the palate. Because the cheese is so mild mannered, the nutty, toasty savor of butter and grill wrap your senses.

Suddenly, the phrase hospital cafeteria suggests home, perhaps the favorite roadside diner. It puts you in a good space. And that's healthy eating.