It’s Tuesday, shortly after 1 p.m., and Traci Wilson has sold her last pork burger and locked the door for the day.

That’s the way it goes at Okie Doke BBQ & Catering in Martinsburg – when the food runs out, it’s closing time. When they first set up along Highway 19 outside a shuttered insurance office one day this summer lines formed quickly, with people drawn to the comforting aroma of smoldering oak and hickory. They started serving at 10:30 in the morning and were sold out just over an hour later.

“Martinsburg has welcomed us big time,” Wilson said.

Five weeks ago Wilson and her husband Mike brought the restaurant indoors. They opened in the former insurance office, now renovated and looking every bit like a longstanding mom and pop barbecue shack.

There’s a patina to the place – you can imagine sepia-stained photographs of the place dating back to the 1940s and a list of sons who learned smoking skills from a long list of fathers.

And it is Mike Wilson and son Clinton who man the brawny metal beast set off to the side of the building, surrounded by stacks of wood.

But, Traci Wilson says, “we’re so new I don’t even have a register yet.”

Okie Doke is a quirky spot. Because the grillmaster drives a truck for a living, barbecue is served on Fridays and Saturdays. From Monday through Thursday the little spot is whatever Traci Wilson wants it to be.

“Mike jokes that it’s Traci’s Diner during the week, Okie Doke barbecue on weekends,” she said.

On this particular day, pork burgers were the menu. Another day she might prepare meatloaf. Rarely does she offer a choice. And breakfasts are the same – biscuits and gravy Monday, Wednesday and Friday, crescent roll sandwiches on Tuesday and the catch-all farmer’s casserole on Thursday.

“People seem to like not having a choice,” Wilson said of the lunch menu. “It’s whatever I’m in the mood to cook that day.”

Plans for the weekend, when Mike takes over, include pork that nestles in the smoker for 10 to 12 hours, ribs and brisket over a whisper of heat so low and slow that one customer from Texas – the world’s self-proclaimed brisket capital – drops in whenever she visits the area.

The Wilsons already had a barbecue following when they opened Okie Doke. They had been doing curbside popups and events for four years as their schedules allowed. Tending the grill, Traci says, is all Mike ever truly wanted to do.

On this afternoon he is with his rig in Indianapolis. He generally gets off the road in time to fire up the smoker on Thursday evening.

Until then, it’s Traci’s diner. And she has a few rules.

“We don’t talk religion or politics, but we’ll talk about our kids and grandkids all day long,” she said.

Oh – and she won’t go to the kitchen to prepare eggs any way you like. She decides the menu.

“That’s about it,” Wilson concludes.